Our day began at the Emerald Guest House in Kempton Park, Johannesburg. We had stayed here several times in the past when the garden was a pool. (Members of my family took pleasure in reminding me that I once drove the back wheel of a kombie into that pool! Not my finest hour.) At 9 AM, we went to JNB to include me on the rental car contract. (We forgot yesterday.) Thereafter, onward to Kgautswane!
Seasons are reversed between Cape Town and Johannesburg: winter is rainy in Cape Town but dry in Joburg. As such, the landscape from Johannesburg to Kgautswane is parched, with no green in sight. The road goes through Mpumalanga, home to South Africa’s vast coal reserves. It is also home to at least one smelter who relies on piles of nearby-mined coal to run their operations.
Along the way, we bought two cakes in Lydenberg at the request of Auntie Connie. We didn’t know it at the time, but the cakes were to celebrate one of Mama Clara’s two birthdays. The first is her actual birthday (in December). The second commemerates the erroneous birthdate on her government-issued identity document (July).
The end of our route today was Bama Lodge, Mama Clara’s guest house in the rural village of Kgautswane. To reach the lodge, guests travel 12 km along a dirt road. The lodge sits in a valley whose scenery and surrounding mountains are as spectacular as they is foreboding. Spectacular due to their beauty and desolation; foreboding because of the rocky soil, low rainfall, and desolation. I would not want to farm here, although some do.
The lodge is comprised of six rondavels, painted in fitting and beautiful ochre and landscaped modestly but tastefully with flowers. We are staying in Number 6. On our two previous visits to Kgautswane, the rondovels did not yet exist (2005) or were barely emplaced (2007) and we slept on the floor. It is nice to see each unit outfitted with toilets, beds, furniture, sinks, and electricity.
Further, Mama Clara has constructed a beautiful home that she shares with daughter Connie whose primary responsibility is Bama Lodge hospitality. She served tea upon our arrival, and we spent some time catching up since their 2014 visit to Michigan. Mama Clara showed us some mementos and awards of her lifelong work in community development. After tea, Catherine made quick friends with three dogs, her favorite being Bruno the granddaughter of the tan one.
After some time spent doing a family crossword puzzle, we had dinner with Swela, another guest in Michigan in 2014. We all enjoyed chicken, beef, mashed potatoes, samp, potato salad, and … birthday cake! Mama Clara arranged for phone calls with Mama Rhodie (Tracy) and Aubrey (me). After dinner, we saw the Milky Way and Mars in the night sky.
We are grateful for the hospitality of Mama Clara and Auntie Connie. Old friends are good friends!
—Matt
