Beautiful Stellenbosch

Errands, nothing but errands today: in sequential order (a) activate bank account, (b) get SIM cards for phones, (c) receive rental car, and (d) purchase groceries. Money before SIM cards, a phone to call Avis for the car, and the car to haul groceries. Let’s keep score to see how this goes!

Well, the car arrived at our flat immediately after finishing breakfast. Awesome! I had assumed I needed to call to give directions. Not so. (c) check!

After signing a stack of paperwork for the car, I walked to Standard Bank to re-open our bank account, reasoning that its debit card would be useful for purchasing the SIMs and groceries. On the way, I took a photo of the Molenzicht sign naming our apartment complex. Ethan was terribly helpful, but our account was on a Level 2 Freeze. (I was never told what that means, exactly. Maybe it’s like Blue?) To unfreeze, a copy of my passport was required (no problem) and a valid cell phone number to verify identity via SMA. Nuts! I guessed the wrong order! Chicken meet egg. Egg meet chicken.

So I walked to the Vodacom shop in the Eikestad Mall where I paid for the SIMs with our U.S. credit card. (b) check! Then back to the bank where Ethan was gone to lunch. Missed him by a minute! Back to the flat where I picked up the family and we walked to Hudsons for a (not so good) lunch.

Back at the bank, Ethan spent an hour on the phone with the Non-res department in Johannesburg, figuring a way to send a certified photocopy of my passport. When Non-res (finally) had what they needed, we set up internet banking and verified that our debit cards worked. In the end, success! And, I withdrew some cash from our South African account at the ATM. (a) check!

Back to the flat to get the family and drive to the grocery store where our debit card (Nuts!) was REFUSED! I’ll try again tomorrowBut, groceries were purchased. (d) check! And, we must revise (a) to partial check.

Through it all, we were reminded constantly of the beauty, stunning beauty, of Stellenbosch. I walked several times across Die Braak and enjoyed the Cape Dutch architecture everywhere. (I photographed the same building that is immortalized on Wikipedia.) The mountains surrounding Stellenbosch were lit by the low afternoon (nearly Winter) sun. And, the courtyard garden at Molenzicht is lovely, with roses, birds of paradise, and bougainvillea.

Tracy sent an email to sister Betty that concisely summarizes what we found endearing about Ghana and differences with South Africa. I include a lightly-edited version below.

—Matt

It is nice that South Africa has the creature comforts of the U.S. or Europe, but I will really miss Ghana. Ghana is a “survival of the fittest” place which certainly wears you down, but Ghanaians are some of the warmest, most hospitable, generous people you’ll ever meet. For me, the personal relationships I formed in Ghana far outweigh the physical hardships of the place. And it’s humbling to be reminded that the vast majority of Ghanaians have no choice but to live day-in and day-out in an environment that tests them physically, emotionally, and spiritually.

One of our South African friends told us that “Africa is not for sissies.” While you can be a sissy in South Africa; not so Ghana. And, I lived sissy-life compared to most Ghanaians: I had a car and air-conditioning 70 % of the time. Indeed, most Ghanaians are so much tougher than me.

Ghana teaches you much about the Global South. For anyone wanting to work in international development, it’s almost a requirement to live there or someplace similar. I wouldn’t have traded the experience for anything, struggles and all. And there were many, many joyous moments too.

Tracy