Ed and I packed our things and departed Gray Rhebok at 8:30 AM. Rather than returning to the Cape via the standard and faster route (N7), we decided to take dirt roads through Cederberg to Ceres, South Africa’s fruit basket. Ed had never taken that route, and I had never been to Ceres. After two hours through forbidding landscape, we descended to the Ceres valley. Throughout the journey, we marveled at the factory farming of apples, pears, and peaches; noted the desolation of remote farms; discussed South African politics; and simply enjoyed riding together.
The final pass into the Wellington-Paarl-Stellenbosch-Cape Flats-Cape Town area is called Bainskloof, named after Andrew Geddes Bain, the engineer who designed the road and supervised its construction. Like other Bain designs, Bainskloof Pass impossibly hugs the side of a cliff to provide safe transit over the mountain. Begun in 1849 and completed in 1853, convicts provided labor for its construction, and their graves are at the summit. The pass itself is a national monument.
After travelling through Wellington and Paarl, we stopped for lunch at Bistro 44, a little roadside restaurant that serves, among other things, Bobotie, the quintessential South African dish. Being both hungry and tired from the past two days, we enjoyed it immensely.
After a quick goodbye, Ed drove to Simonstown. I unpacked and did laundry. I have one more day at the office (tomorrow) before tidying the flat, putting stuff into storage, and packing for my flight. Only three days remain.
—Matt
