We had several interesting events today.
For the first time since our arrival in Accra, everyone in the family got haircuts. We went to Star Unisex Salon in Dzorwulu, where Antoinette “has been styling European Hair for years and comes highly recommended.” It feels great to be a little lighter.
Daniel (from Adenkrebi) brought flowers to our flat. Daniel owns a floral arrangement company that services both individuals and TV and movie productions. The arrangement included ginger, lilies, and “lobster feet.” Not really, but that’s what they look like, and we can’t remember the name.
In mid-afternoon, we went to the Accra Mall. Mark went to see the Deadpool movie while I shopped for groceries and Tracy and Catherine shopped for stuff for the Calvin program. Because we finished long before the movie ended, Catherine, Tracy, and I went home for dinner.
I drove back later (in the dark) to pick Mark.
I was stopped, not once, but TWICE by community police officers who direct traffic in the roundabout at the entrance to the mall; both as I arrived and on my way home. (This is the same spot where I was stopped two weeks ago.) Today, my first offense was approaching the traffic circle in the incorrect lane. My second offense was … there was no second offense. Oh wait, I think I was driving while white.
Both times the officer said that my combination of Michigan driver license and International Driving Permit (IDP) was not legal in Ghana. Both times I was told that I should have visited the DVLA to obtain a 300-cedi endorsement on my license, because I had been in the country for more than one month. Both times I was asked “Do you know this is Ghana?” and told “Things have changed.” Both times I was told I must drive with the officer to the airport police station where my car would be impounded and I would take a taxi home. Both times it was suggested that I could settle the matter now if I pulled over and turned off all lights. Both times, I offered 20 cedis. Both times I was told that 60 cedis would be necessary because there were three officers on duty at the roundabout.
Thankfully, I never felt I was in physical danger. And, as far as I can tell, the stories about the International Driving Permit and the endorsement are both completely untrue. In fact, the DVLA’s own website says that a foreign license with accompanying IDP is valid for up to one year. Even so, I’m 120 cedis poorer. Indeed, being in the right is no help when you are helpless, when you hold none of the cards, when you’re facing a night in jail.
Ugh. It feels absolutely terrible to be racially profiled; no one should believe otherwise. And, as of tonight, both of my children have had the uncomfortable pleasure of seeing their dad bullied by corrupt cops. Welcome to the real world, kids. It can be a very nasty place.
—Matt
