We were invited by friends Wikus and Heidi to spend the weekend at their holiday home in Stilbaai with Mbali (one of Wikus’ students) and Karin (an employee of the Centre). Tracy is in Johannesburg, so it was Catherine, Mark, and I who made the three-and-a-half hour drive, arriving at 9 PM. After an awesome pasta dinner and a bit of chatting and discussion of plans and weather contingencies, we got to bed in preparation for today.
Because we arrived in the deep darkness of a rainy night, we had no chance to appreciate the view. But at breakfast we could see the Indian Ocean and its rough water, the result of strong winds. A few rainclouds passed overhead giving rise to a beautiful double rainbow, so close you could almost touch it, and inevitable talk of a pot of gold just beyond the dune.
On this getaway weekend, Catherine met Bingle, Wikus’ new puppy. Heidi made it very clear the dog is not hers! Catherine ignored all discussion of Bingle’s true owner, claiming by her actions the caretake mantle for the weekend. And Bingle was only too pleased to have a three-day companion.
Our first activity after breakfast was a beach walk, made possible by low tide and clearing weather. Catherine ran with, walked with, and chased after Bingle, cementing their friendship in the process. The rest of us walked and talked in the chilly morning air. We moved westward to the mouth of the Goukou river from which West Stilbaai can be seen.
We next travelled to the tourism office in West Stilbaai to check out the Pallingat Eels. Unfortunately, the poor weather and earlier rain meant that the 11 AM feeding was cancelled. We did, however, learn a bit about the history of the area. And we saw a replica of a piece of ochre thought to bear the world’s oldest art.
After lunch, everyone but Wikus and Mark did a hike on the Jongensfontein walking trail. This trail winds along the ocean, past countless boulders and layered rocks covered in orange lichen. Despite a small rain shower, we enjoyed the views of the ocean and coastline. Near the end of the 2.5-hour walk, we came upon the visvywers (pronounced fis-fie-vers), ancient human-constructed tidal pools that trap fish which are sold for profit. After the hike, Catherine was exhausted and snuggled with Bingle in the sun.
For dinner, our hosts provided a delicious braai. Mark encouraged us to play 30 Seconds, which we did with great enthusiasm. Karin and Heidi won, most likely because they are the same, um, vintage! Mark and I came second. Wikus and Mbali were last. Catherine helped Bingle get to sleep.
What a fabulous day!
—Matt
