At high tide, small boats can navigate the Goukou river several kilometers inland and northward from the ocean. High tide today was at mid-morning, meaning that an early departure would be necessary. Being winter, an early departure also means a cold departure, and there was some discussion of the merits of this plan. In the end, the “when else in our lives will we get a chance to do this?” argument won the day, and Wikus, Mbali, Catherine, Mark, and I departed at 7:45 AM for the jetty, arriving shortly after sunrise.
While Wikus put the inflatable boat in the water, I drove the truck off the ramp to a parking spot. As he sped toward the dock where Mbali, Mark, and Catherine were waiting, Wikus playfully swung the stern to splash the dock. Thankfully he missed. 3 °C (37 °F) is cold enough when you’re dry; nobody wants to be drenched! Despite being wrapped by comforters and being clothed in several layers (in my case three below and five above), the full-throttle, high-speed up-stream journey was biting cold. Mark buried his head beneath the blanket. Catherine and Mbali snuggled to keep warm. Wikus and I both had tears streaming from our eyes; he kept his open to drive, I kept mine open to absorb the glory of a stunning but crisp morning.
The only sense of warmth came from our closest star. In terms of temperature, the ride was tolerable in the sun, less so in the shade. In terms of light, the sun provided a soft, warm orange glow against the sharp, cold blue of the water and sky. Beautiful!
Back at the house, we had a late breakfast, and people took beach walks or stayed inside to read. Mbali and I went for a 10k run.
About 1:30, we began the long drive home. The return trip was significantly different from Friday’s night drive to Stilbaai; we could see our surroundings on this sunny afternoon. The green rolling hills and yellow canola stood in sharp contrast to the deep blue skies. Travelling down Sir Lowry’s Pass afforded a fantastic view over the Cape Flats toward Table Mountain.
We are grateful for the hospitality shown to us by Wikus and Heidi. We are also thankful for friends old (Karin) and new (Mbali). It can be difficult to live in a different culture; but it is much easier when you are welcome, when someone can be your guide. Indeed, life is navigated with the help of friends, and we are richer for the shared journey. I can only hope that I enrich my friends’ lives as much as they enrich mine.
—Matt
